Catharine Lo: On Surfing
Occupation: Freelance Writer
Years surfing: 9
Favorite surf break: Ali‘i when it's small, because the left is fun, the vibe is mellow, and the view from the ocean is stunning.
Favorite story of Duke Kahanamoku: I heard about Duke Kahanamoku's legendary mile-long wave that he caught from First Break (outside Castles?) all the way into the beach at Canoes. What a dream.
A hot, up-and-coming surfer: I think Flynn Novak is one of the most underrated and most progressive surfers in Hawaii. There's a fine line between courage and crazy, and he constantly straddles it.
What one piece of advice can you give beginning surfers? Be grateful for everything the ocean gives you, and it will continue to bring you joy.
Is it ever too late to learn to surf? I once took my friend's mom--she was over 60, and she caught a wave in Waikiki. It's never too late to feel stoked.