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Nico's at Pier 38

Once a chef in one of the city's best-known fine-dining restaurants, Lyon-born Nico Chaiz elected to create a place where he could work the hours he likes and serve people like himself, who love good food at reasonable prices. Where better than a few steps from the city's fish auction? Though its chief clientele is rough-hewn dock workers and fishermen, the café has received universal critical acclaim for its upscale plate lunches of seaweed-crusted tuna steaks, and fish and egg breakfasts. Reservations not accepted.

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