Yes, the popovers and the wee little cups of bouillon are there at lunch, but in every other regard, this Neiman Marcus restaurant menu departs from the classic model, incorporating a clear sense of Pacific place. The veranda, open to the breezes and view of Ala Moana Park, twirling ceiling fans, and life-size hula-girl murals say Hawaii. The popovers at lunch come with a strawberty-butter spread; the kurobuta porkchop is inspired, and local fish are featured nightly in luxuriant specials. Make sure to leave room for the warm lilikoi pudding cake for dessert. www.neimanmarcushawaii.com/restaurant.aspx. Reservations essential. Credit cards accepted.