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Chef Mavro

George Mavrothalassitis, who took two hotel restaurants to the top of the ranks before founding this James Beard Award-winning dinner house, admits he's "crazy." Crazy because of the care he takes to draw out the truest and most concentrated flavors, to track down the freshest fish, to create one-of-a-kind wine pairings that might strike others as mad. But for this passionate Provençal transplant, there's no other way. The menu changes quarterly, every dish (including dessert) matched with a select wine. We recommend the multi-course tasting menus (beginning at $66 for four courses without wine, up to $137 for six courses with wine). Etched-glass windows screen the busy streetcorner scene and all within is mellow and serene with starched white tablecloths, fresh flowers, wood floors, and contemporary island art. Reservations essential. No lunch.

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