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You're one step closer to paradise...
Kim Steutermann Rogers
Article Source: Blog Post
Beyond the always crowded parking lot. Past the sticks of showers circling the public restrooms. Far to the south of the command center that is the lifeguard tower in the center of Waimea Bay is a rock jutting into the ocean at the edge of the beach. It’s more than twice my height and where I wanted to be to photograph the surf rolling into Waimea Bay—surf so big that lifeguards had closed the beach to swimming and alerted beachgoers on a public address system whenever ripples on the water’s surface far on the horizon, made their way to shore, hit the steeply rising land, and pitched into the monster surf for which Waimea is famous. The right-breaking waves off the point at the north end of the bay can grow to 50 feet. That’s no small thing. In fact, that’s the height of a five-story building.
I wasn't in Haleiwa on Oahu's North Shore to surf. I didn't much care whether the surf was breaking at Jockos or not. But I did want to know whether Jocko's mom was around. Surfline couldn't tell me that. I'd have to find out for myself. I first learned of Audrey Sutherland when I read the February/March issue of Hana Hou, Hawaiian Airlines' in-flight magazine. According to the magazine, Audrey Sutherland has paddled an estimated 12,000 thousand miles along some of the world's most epic coastlines. In an inflatable kayak. Solo.
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