Lahaina Adventure Guide

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Lahaina Adventure Guide

If you're looking for a little adventure on your Maui vacation, you don't need to venture far from this one-time capital of the kingdom of Hawaii. With its lively harbor and storied history, Lahaina--in West Maui--is well-situated to launch a myraid of adventures--many within walking distance.  From royalty enjoying the playground of Lahaina to whalers on leave living it up, Lahaina has witnessed many different kinds of Maui adventures over the years, and from the looks of the offerings today, that adventure attitude isn't about to change.

Whale watching
From December into May, whale-watching becomes one of the most popular activities on Maui. During the season, all outfitters offer whale-watching in addition to their regular activities, and most do an excellent job. Boats leave the wharves at Lahaina and Maalaea in search of humpbacks, allowing you to enjoy the awe-inspiring size of these creatures in closer proximity.

As it's almost impossible not to see whales in winter on Maui, you'll want to prioritize: is adventure or comfort your aim? If close encounters with the giants of the deep are your desire, pick a smaller boat that promises sightings. Those who think "green" usually prefer the smaller, quieter vessels that produce the least amount of negative impact to the whales' natural environment. If an impromptu marine-biology lesson sounds fun, go with the Pacific Whale Foundation. Two-hour forays into the whales' world are around $30. For those wanting to sip mai tais as whales cruise calmly by, stick with a sunset cruise on a boat with an open bar and pupu (Hawaiian tapas, $40 and up). Afternoon trips are generally rougher because the wind picks up, but some say this is when the most surface action occurs.

Every captain aims to please during whale season, getting as close as legally possible (100 yards). Crew members know when a whale is about to dive (after several waves of its heart-shaped tail) but rarely can predict breaches (when the whale hurls itself up and almost entirely out of the water). Prime-viewing space (on the upper and lower decks, around the railings) is limited, so boats can feel crowded even when half full. If you don't want to squeeze in beside strangers, opt for a smaller boat with fewer bookings. Don't forget to bring sunscreen, sunglasses, a light long-sleeve cover-up, and a hat you can secure. Winter weather is less predictable and at times can be extreme, especially as the wind picks up. Arrive early to find parking.

Best Spots

From December 15 to May 1 the Pacific Whale Foundation has naturalists stationed in two places—on the rooftop of their headquarters and at the scenic viewpoint at Papawai Point Lookout (Rte. 30, 3 mi west of, Maalaea, Harbor, 96793). Just like the commuting traffic, whales cruise along the pali, or cliff-side, of West Maui's Honoapiilani Highway all day long. Make sure to park safely before craning your neck out to see them.

The northern end of Keawakapu Beach (S. Kihei Rd. near Kilohana Dr., 96753) seems to be a whale magnet. Situate yourself on the sand or at the nearby restaurant, and you're bound to see a mama whale patiently teaching her calf the exact technique of flipper-waving.

Deep sea fishing
If fishing is your sport, Maui is your island. In these waters you'll find ahi, aku (skipjack tuna), barracuda, bonefish, kawakawa (bonito), mahimahi, Pacific blue marlin, ono, and ulua (jack crevalle). You can fish year-round and you don't need a license. Because boats fill up fast during busy seasons (Christmas, spring break, tournament weeks), consider making reservations before coming to Maui.

Plenty of fishing boats run out of Lahaina and Maalaea harbors. If you charter a private boat, expect to spend in the neighborhood of $700 to $1,000 for a thrilling half-day in the swivel seat. You can share a boat for much less if you don't mind close quarters with a stranger who may get seasick, drunk, or worse… lucky! Before you sign up, you should know that some boats keep the catch. Most will, however, fillet a nice piece for you to take home. And if you catch a real beauty, you might even be able to have it professionally mounted.

You're expected to bring your own lunch and nonglass beverages. (Shop the night before; it's hard to find snacks at 6 AM.) Boats supply coolers, ice, and bait. A 10% to 20% tip is suggested.

Boats and Charters

Finest Kind Inc. A record 1,118-pound blue marlin was reeled in by the crew aboard Finest Kind, a lovely 37-foot Merritt kept so clean you'd never guess the action it's seen. Ask Captain Dave about his pet frigate bird—he's been around these waters long enough to befriend other expert fishers. This family-run company operates four boats and specializes in live bait. Shared charters start at $139 for four hours and up to $199 for a full day. All-day private trips go from $599 to $1,000. Add 7% for tax and harbor fees. Check for any specials before booking. Lahaina Harbor, Slip 7, 96761. 808/661-0338. www.finestkindsportfishing.com.

Hinatea Sportfishing. This company is well established and has an excellent reputation. The active crew aboard the first-class, 41-foot Hatteras has the motto, "No boat rides here—we go to catch fish!" Charters go from $150 to $210 for a shared boat and from $850 to $1,100 for a private boat. A 7% tax will be included. Lahaina Harbor, Slip 27, 96761. 808/667-7548.

Kai Palena Sportfishing. Captain Fuzzy Alboro runs a serious and highly recommended operation on the 32-foot Die Hard. Check-in is at 2:45 AM, and he takes a maximum of six people per trip. The cost is from $200 for a shared boat to $1,100 for a private charter; add 7% tax. 511 Pikanele St., Lahaina Harbor, Slip 10, 96761. 808/878-2362.

Start Me Up Sportfishing. These 42-foot Bertram Sportfishers will give you one of the most comfortable fishing trips around. With more than 20 years in business, Start Me Up has a fleet of five boats, all relatively new and impeccably maintained, complete with all the amenities: TV, VCR, refrigerator, microwave, and ice chest. They provide the tackle and equipment. Six-person max. Lahaina Harbor, Slip 12, 96761. 808/667-2774. www.startmeupsportfishing.com.

Lanai day trip
With no traffic or traffic lights and miles of open space, Lanai seems lost in time, and that can be a good thing. Small (141 square mi) and sparsely populated, it is the smallest inhabited Hawaiian Island and has just 3,500 residents, most of them living Upcountry. Though it may seem a world away, Lanai is separated from Maui and Molokai by two narrow channels, and is easily accessed by boat from either island.

The high-speed, inflatable rafts you find on Maui are nothing like the raft that Huck Finn used to drift down the Mississippi. While passengers grip straps, these rafts fly, skimming and bouncing across the sea. Because they're so maneuverable, they go where the big boats can't—secret coves, sea caves, and remote beaches. Two-hour trips run around $50, half-day trips upward of $100. Although safe, these trips are not for the faint of heart. If you have back or neck problems or are pregnant, you should reconsider this activity.

Tours

Ocean Riders. This West Maui tour crosses the AuAu Channel to Lanai's Shipwreck Beach, then circles the island for 70 mi of remote coast. For snorkeling, the "back side" of Lanai is one of Hawaii's unsung marvels. Tours—$129 plus tax per person—depart from Mala Wharf, at the northern end of Front Street and include snorkel gear, a fruit breakfast, and a deli lunch. Lahaina, 96761. 808/661-3586. www.mauioceanriders.com.

Parasailing
Parasailing is an easy, exhilarating way to earn your wings: just strap on a harness attached to a parachute, and a powerboat pulls you up and over the ocean from a launching dock or a boat's platform. Parasailing is limited to West Maui, and "thrill craft"—including parasails—are prohibited in Maui waters during humpback whale-calving season, December 15 to May 15.

West Maui Parasail. Launch 400 feet above the ocean for a bird's-eye view of Lahaina, or be daring at 800 feet for smoother rides and better views. The captain will be glad to let you experience a "toe dip" or "freefall" if you request it. For safety reasons, passengers weighing less than 100 pounds must be strapped together in tandem. Hour-long trips departing from Lahaina Harbor, Slip 15, and Kaanapali Beach include 8- to 10-minute flights and run from $65 for the 400-foot ride to $75 for the 800-foot ride. Observers must pay $30 each. 808/661-4060. www.westmauiparasail.com.

Surfing
Maui's diverse coastline has surf for every level of waterman or—woman. Waves on leeward-facing shores (West and South Maui) tend to break in gentle sets all summer long. Surf instructors in Kihei and Lahaina can rent you boards, give you onshore instruction, and then lead you out through the channel, where it's safe to enter the surf. They'll shout encouragement while you paddle like mad for the thrill of standing on water—some will even give you a helpful shove. These areas are great for beginners; the only danger is whacking a stranger with your board or stubbing your toe against the reef.

The North Shore is another story. Winter waves pound the windward coast, attracting water champions from every corner of the world. Adrenaline addicts are towed in by Jet Ski to a legendary, deep-sea break called "Jaws." Waves here periodically tower upward of 40 feet, dwarfing the helicopters seeking to capture unbelievable photos. The only spot for viewing this phenomenon (which happens just a few times a year) is on private property. So, if you hear the surfers next to you crowing about Jaws "going off," cozy up and get them to take you with them.

Stand-up paddle surfing, where you stand on a longboard and paddle out with a canoe oar, is the new "comeback kid" of surf sports. Paddleboarding requires even more balance and coordination than regular surfing. But these days you can almost always see at least one lone paddler amid the pack—watch for them.

Goofy Foot. Surfing "goofy foot" means putting your right foot forward. They might be goofy, but we like the right-footed gurus here. Their safari shop is just plain cool and only steps away from "Breakwall," a great beginner's spot in Lahaina. Two-hour classes with five or fewer students are $65, and six-hour classes with lunch and an ocean-safety course are $300. They promise you'll be standing within a two-hour lesson—or it's free. Owner and "stoke broker" Tim Sherer offers private lessons for $200 and will sometimes ride alongside to record video clips and give more-thorough feedback. 505 Front St., Suite 123, Lahaina, 96761. 808/244-9283. www.goofyfootsurfschool.com.

Nancy Emerson School of Surfing. Nancy's motto is "If my dog can surf, so can you." Instructors here will get even the most shaky novice riding with their "Learn to Surf in One Lesson" program. A two-hour group lesson (five students max) is $78. Nancy currently lives in Australia, but private lessons with her equally qualified instructors are $165-$200 for two hours. Semiprivate lessons with two people are $130 per person. Multiple-day sessions start at $350. They provide boards and rash guards. 505 Front St., Suite 224B, Lahaina, 96761. 808/244-7873. www.mauisurfclinics.com.

Royal Hawaiian Surf Academy. Owner Kimo Kinimaka grew up rippin' it with uncle and legendary surfer Titus Kinimaka, so it's no wonder his passion translates to a fun, memorable time at the novice-friendly Lahaina Breakwall. Private lessons are available for $130 and semiprivate for $190 total. Group lessons cost $65 per person. Rash guards and shoes are provided. 117 Prison St., Lahaina, 96761. 808/276-7873. www.royalhawaiiansurfacademy.com.

 

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