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The renovations took a long time (almost nine months) and cost a lot of money (more than $5 million), but the result is spectacular. While the setting is anything but humble, the menu at Ko—which means "sugarcane" in Hawaiian—borrows treasured family recipes from plantation days. Executive Chef Tylun Pang adds modern, innovative twists to Hawaiian, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese, Korean, and Japanese dishes. The cocktail and wine lists arrive via iPad. Take note of the tabletops—glassware, cutlery, plates, bowls, serving pieces. They are among the most handsome you'll see anywhere. www.ko.kealanifairmont.com. Credit cards accepted.