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Kainaliu is the first town you encounter to the south heading upcountry from Kailua town. In addition to a ribbon of funky old stores, coffee bars, and bistros, a handful of new galleries and shops have sprung up in the last few years. Browse around Oshima's, established in 1926, and Kimura's, founded in 1927, to find fabrics and Japanese goods beyond tourist trinkets, then pop into a local café for everything from burgers to authentic Italian. Peek into the 1932-vintage Aloha Theatre, where community-theater actors might be practicing a Broadway revue.