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Kuhio Grille

There's no atmosphere to speak of, and water is served in unbreakable plastic, but if you're searching for local fare—that eclectic and undefinable fusion of ethnic cuisines—Kuhio Grille is a must. Sam Araki serves a 1-pound laulau (a steamed bundle of taro leaves and pork) that is worth the trip. Other grindz include loco moco, oxtail soup, plate lunch specialties, pork chops, steaks, saimin, stir-fry, and daily specials. This local diner opens at 6 am, and is at the edge of Hilo's largest mall, Prince Kuhio Plaza, above the parking lot near Longs. www.kuhiogrill.com. Credit cards accepted.

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