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There's no atmosphere to speak of, and water is served in unbreakable plastic, but if you're searching for local fare—that eclectic and undefinable fusion of ethnic cuisines—Kuhio Grille is a must. Sam Araki serves a 1-pound laulau (a steamed bundle of taro leaves and pork) that is worth the trip. Other grindz include loco moco, oxtail soup, plate lunch specialties, pork chops, steaks, saimin, stir-fry, and daily specials. This local diner opens at 6 am, and is at the edge of Hilo's largest mall, Prince Kuhio Plaza, above the parking lot near Longs. www.kuhiogrill.com. Credit cards accepted.